Hardwood is a natural material that can be affected by temperature and humidity levels of its surrounding environment. All wood products will expand when the relative humidity level is high and shrink when the relative humidity level is low. It is important to maintain the relative humidity level where the engineered floor is installed at between 35% and 55%, and room temperature must be consistently kept at 18 C (65 F) to 24 C (75 F). These conditions must be maintained throughout shipping, storage, installation, and thereafter. Failure to do so will void your product warranty.
Do not transport flooring products under raining or damp conditions. Handle and unload flooring products with care, and store in a dry and well-ventilated place. Flooring shall not be delivered until the building has been enclosed with windows, doors are in place, and cement work, plastering, and all other wet work are completed and dry. HVAC systems must be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior to installation of the flooring and must remain operating during and after installation.
In addition, prior to installation of flooring, exterior grading must be completed with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3 inches over 10 ft to direct the flow of water away from the building. All gutters and drainage spouts must be in place. The soil around the house must be treated or graded to provide sufficient drainage.
Never install hardwood floors in areas exposed to excessive moisture.
Both before and after installation, your hardwood floors will absorb or release moisture. Hardwood will typically expand in the summer months and contract during the winter. It should be ensured that acceptable humidity levels are maintained prior to and following the installation of wood flooring
To achieve the best results, acclimation is recommended for engineered products. It is advised that engineered products be allowed 4-5 days respectively to acclimatize, or until they rest comfortably within the suggested relative humidity and temperature levels of 35%-55% RH and between 18C-24C.
Subfloor Conditions
Ensure that your subfloor is Structurally Sound. The subfloor should be adequately nailed, screwed, or glued down prior to the installation of your floor, failure to do so will cause issues such as squeaking and more. It is also important to check that the subfloor is Level and Flat prior to installation. If hardwood is installed on uneven subfloors, end joint separations may occur. The subfloor must also be Clean and cleared of any debris that may interfere with the floors or the installation. Lastly, the Moisture levels of the subfloor should be DRY and measured prior to installation using a moisture meter. Moisture levels should not exceed 4 percent for concrete and 12 percent for plywood.
Subfloor Types
Plywood subfloor is suitable for use with any of our engineered products. 3⁄4” Plywood is ideal for subfloors, however the minimum thickness used should be 5⁄8”.
O.S.B.
Oriented Strand Board (O.S.B.) is an alternative to plywood made up of 3–4-inch strands of wood which are layered and glued together, then pressed. We advise the use of 3⁄4” or 23/32” stamped exterior grade O.S.B. Building codes in Canada call for a minimum 5⁄8” O.S.B., and we strongly recommend the use of glue assist for O.S.B. applications.
Concrete
For new concrete, allow a minimum of 60 days cure time prior to the use of concrete moisture tests. Various methods and testing devices exist to check the moisture level of a concrete subfloor.
Subfloor Testing
Polyethylene test (ASTM D 4263), surface test. Tape a plastic film of 2’x2’ (60 x 60 cm) over concrete for 48 hours to see if concrete changes color or condensation occurs. This information will indicate that the concrete floor is wet -- and the hardwood floor should not be installed. This method is empirical and is a preliminary test, further analysis will be required.
RELATIVE MOISTURE TEST
Relative moisture test (ASTM F 2170), thorough test. Using an ultrasonic sensor and a sensor, check the relative humidity of the concrete slab to 40 % of its depth. A reading of 75 % RH or less indicates that the concrete slab is ready to receive the wooden floor; a reading between 75% and 85 % indicates that it is preferable to place a waterproof membrane before installing the wood floor. Never install a hardwood floor when the moisture level is greater than 85%.
CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST
Calcium chloride test (ASTM F 1869), thorough test. A calcium chloride test must be conducted to determine whether the moisture content of the concrete exceeds 3 lbs./1000 ft2 per 24 hours. If so, but less than 7 lbs./1000 ft2, one can use an approved waterproof membrane to cover the concrete. Never install a hardwood floor when the calcium chloride test exceeds 7 lbs./1 000 ft2 per 24 hours. Concrete leveling is a very important point. Concrete must be flat/level within 3/16th over a 10 ft. span (5 mm over 3 m)
Radiant Heat
Engineered hardwood floors will react differently to the drying effects of radiant heat depending on the type of radiant heat being used.
As the radiant heating market is still relatively new. Different types and models are being released every year; as such, compatibility with engineered flooring cannot be accurately substantiated or safely guaranteed.
Grandeur Flooring does not offer any warranties for engineered flooring installed with radiant heat.
Important
• Grandeur Flooring requires that hardwood flooring must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty for your flooring.
• It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-surface conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
• Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in anyway the product is not to standard STOP installation and immediately contact your retailer.
• The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed hardwood flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
• Crawlspace or basement areas must be cross-ventilated, and covered entirely with proper vapor barriers, in accordance with NWFA Installation Guidelines.
STEP 1: Undercut doorjambs at the base door frames to the thickness of the flooring to allow a strip of hardwood to be inserted under.
STEP 2: Flooring must be installed at a 90 or 45-degree angle relative to the joists.
STEP 3: Installation should begin from the straightest wall in the room.
STEP 4: Expansion space should be allowed for mouldings. This space varies by the installation method.
STEP 5: Mouldings should not be attached directly to the flooring as it should not inhibit the floor’s ability to move.
NAILED DOWN INSTALLATION
Glue Assist Recommendation (Planks Wider than 5”)
• Grandeur recommends that hardwood planks wider than 5” in width be installed using “glue assist + nailed down” method.
• The purpose of glue assisting with a nailed down installation is to prevent squeaking of floorboards. The glue assist installation is a supplementary process, which does not replace or change the normal nailing schedule required for a nailed down installation.
For T&G Engineered Floors with 3/4” thickness and wider than 5” it is required to glue assist to comply with Grandeur’s warranty as well as NWFA Standards.
STEP 1: Roll out the vapour retarder paper the length of the room. Cut it so it touches the outside walls, and overlap the inside edges 3” to 5” to completely cover the floor space of the room. Vapour retarder paper is the NWFA recommendation as an underlayment for hardwood flooring.
STEP2: Select an air-assisted or manual nailer. The use of proper size cleats/staples is imperative. For 3/4” engineered floors use only 16-gauge cleats or 2inch nails. STEP 3: It is best to run the hardwood flooring perpendicular to the joist at 90 degrees.
STEP 4: Allowing an expansion gap of plank width + 3⁄4” around the perimeter of the room, (the thickness of the material) along the wall, snap a chalk line for the width of a plank+3/4”.
STEP 5: Place the planks in front of the chalk line (Racking). Using 3 to 4 cartons at a time, mix in or use boards that range in color, grain, and length.
STEP 5: Place the edge of the boards along the chalk line with the tongue side facing the field area and the groove side facing the wall.
STEP 6: Secure the first row to the floor. For face nailing, drill pilot holes at least 1” from the grooved side and 3” from
the ends of the strip. Face drill into the plank approximately every 8-10”. For best visual results, drill into the darker grain of the wood rather than the lighter. Use a nail punch to counter the sink. The use of putty is recommended even if these nail holes will be covered by shoe moulding or baseboard, this helps to prevent the possibility of cleaning material entering the holes.
STEP 7: Blind nail on a 45-degree angle at least 1-2” from both ends into the plank’s tongue approximately every 8-10”. Complete the entire first row along the chalk line and check to see if you can start using your nailer without hitting any walls or objects. A second row of blind nailing may be required. Do not face nail on the second row.
STEP 8 Stagger the end joints by at least twice the plank’s width. For example: using a 3 1/4” wide plank would put the next row’s end joint no closer than 6 1/2”. Ensure that there is a nail approximately 1-2” away from both ends of the board. STEP 9: Start using your nailer or stapler every 4-6” and 1-2” at both ends. Rack out your floor using 3-4 boxes. Again, mix longer and shorter boards, and vary the lights and darks, as well as mixing in the different grain patterns to provide the best possible natural wood look.
STEP 10: Continue each row. When cutting the last board of a row, you can use the remainder of the board for the next starting board, if it is larger than 6”.
STEP 11: As you approach the last few rows, the use of the nailer will not be possible. Therefore, you must blind nail as mentioned earlier, every 8-10” and 1-2” from the ends of the boards. STEP 12: Face nail and putty in the last row. Remember to nail only in the darker grain to help hide these holes. Don’t forget to leave a 3/4” expansion gap.
STEP 13: If it is necessary to finish the installation of the last row with a narrow width board, measure the boards and allow a 3/4” expansion area in your calculations and cut the boards on a table saw.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION
For T&G Engineered Floors with 3/4” thickness, follow the adhesive manufacture’s instruction carefully and test a small amount on subfloor for adhesion bonding.
Warranty may be voided when there is improper use of adhesive or trowels. Always hold the trowel at a 45o angle, pressing firmly. Replace trowel when teeth are worn
It is recommended that planks be installed parallel to the outside wall which is usually the longest and straightest. Add the thickness of the boards for your expansion gap.
(ie: 7 1/2” board + 3/4” thickness = 8 1⁄4”)
STEP 1: Select an air assisted or manual nailer. Follow subfloor moisture preparations.
STEP 2: Spread out enough adhesive so you can work within the available set up or work time. The freshly applied adhesive must leave trowel marks/trowel ridges. Only apply adhesive up to your chalk line and not over it.
STEP 3: Use 3 to 4 cartons at a time. Mix in or use boards that range in color, grain, and length. Place the planks into the wet adhesive with the groove side on the chalk line and facing the outside wall. This is the same direction to that of a nailed/stapled down installation. Ensure that the 1st row is exactly on the chalk line. Use different board lengths, grain, and color tones within each carton to give you a better visual of natural wood.
STEP 4: Cut off the last piece in your starting row, leaving proper expansion space from the wall 12 mm (1/2”) from the wall and use it as your 1st piece or starter board for the 2nd rows. It is best to not use a piece under 6” as they tend to move out of position. Continue each row, engaging the groove into the tongue along the side 1st, then the end to be engaged 2nd. Avoid, if possible, end joint cluster by staggering ends by twice the plank width.
STEP 5: Complete the project area. For the last board, leave again a proper expansion gap away from wall. If it is necessary to finish the last row with boards less than a full board width wide, then cut or rip along board width using a table saw.
STEP 6: Before installing the last plank, choose the one that matches the moldings.
STEP 7: Avoid any traffic on your new installation for 24 hours. If this is unavoidable, use a kneeler board to help distribute the weight and movement.
Note:
• Verify that the concrete is at an appropriate moisture level.
• For the best performance, we recommend double gluing the planks which involves applying adhesive to both the plank and the subfloor.
• Glue that spreads between wood and membrane and subfloor is referred to as “double-glued”. Plank glued directly on the subfloor is referred to as “simple-glued”.
• For optimized acoustic and stability, we recommend using membrane with double-glue characteristics.
• Adhesives have a setup time that may vary from brand to brand.
• Make sure not to spread out the adhesive beyond your working time.
• Immediately remove any adhesive that comes into contact with the face of the hardwood using the proper adhesive remover
• Never slide or drag a board along the applied adhesive as adhesives have an elastic memory and will move back or away from position.
• Replace any trowel that has worn teeth. Do not try to create your own notches by cutting teeth out with tin snips as even slight imperfections can affect the floor.
• Open time will vary by climate, region, or dwelling humidity. • It is considered good practice to check occasionally that you have enough adhesive transfer on the back of the hardwood planks.
• On large concrete installations, be prepared to use more than one trowel as teeth will wear down with use.
• Wall to wall carpeting must be removed before installing your new hardwood floor
• Do not install cabinets or walls on top of the flooring
• it is the installer’s responsibility to ensure that the cleat is properly set as dimpling of the wood face is not considered a manufacturing defect.
Do not transport flooring products exposed -- if under raining or damp conditions. Handle and unload flooring products with care, and store in a dry and well-ventilated place. Flooring shall not be delivered until the building has been enclosed with windows, doors are in place, and cement work, plastering, and all other wet work are completed and dry. HVAC systems must be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior to installation of the flooring and must remain operating during and after installation.
In addition, prior to installation of flooring, exterior grading must be completed with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3in over 10ft to direct the flow of water away from the building. All gutters and drainage spouts must be in place. The soil around the house must be treated or graded to provide sufficient drainage.
The following considerations are vital for ensuring the functionality and longevity of our products, failure to adhere to them will void your warranty.
To achieve the best results, vinyl flooring products must be acclimatized. It is advised that vinyl products be allowed 2 days at room temperature (18ºC-28ºC) to acclimatize.
Thereafter, maintaining room temperature of 20ºC-28ºC and a humidity level of 35%-65% is important to ensure long lasting vinyl floors.
To achieve the best results, vinyl flooring products must be acclimatized. It is advised that vinyl products be allowed 2 days at room temperature (20C-28C) to acclimatize.
Thereafter, maintaining room temperature of 20C-28C and a humidity level of 35%-65% is important to ensure long lasting vinyl floors.
To achieve the best results, acclimation is recommended for vinyl flooring products. Place closed boxes in the middle of the room, avoiding walls or corners. It is advised that vinyl products be allowed 2 days at room temperature (18-24C) to acclimatize. Thereafter, maintaining room temperature and a humidity level of 35%-55% is important to ensure long lasting vinyl floors.
Subfloor Conditions
Ensure that your subfloor is Structurally Sound. The subfloor should be adequately nailed, screwed, or glued down prior to the installation of your floor. All nail heads must be driven down below the surface. Securely nail all loose boards. Scrape, plane or fill uneven boards, holes or cracks using floor-leveling compound. Check that the subfloor is Level and Flat prior to installation. Subfloor unevenness cannot be greater than 3/16in over a 10ft span or 1/8in over a 6ft span. Furthermore, subfloors must not slope more than 1/2in per 6ft.
The subfloor must also be Clean and cleared of any debris that may interfere with the floors or the installation. Lastly, the Moisture levels of the subfloor should be DRY (moisture content cannot exceed 4% for concrete and 12% for plywood and OSB. Measured prior to installation using a moisture meter.)
Minimum temperature of subfloor should not be under 10ºC.
Subfloor Types
Plywood subfloor is suitable for use with any of our vinyl products. ¾” Plywood over structurally sound subfloor is ideal. Ensure moisture content does not exceed 12%
Oriented Strand Board (O.S.B.) is an alternative to plywood made up of 3–4-inch strands of wood which are layered and glued together, then pressed. We advise the use of ¾” or stamped exterior grade O.S.B. Note: Building codes in Canada require minimum ⅝” thick O.S.B. Ensure moisture content does not exceed 12%.
Concrete subfloors must be level and dry. Ensure moisture content does not exceed 4% for concrete subfloors.
Important
• Grandeur Flooring requires that vinyl flooring products must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty for your vinyl flooring.
• It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-floor conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
• Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in anyway the product is not to standard STOP installation and immediately contact your retailer.
• The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed vinyl flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
• Prior to installation, installer or homeowner must carefully check planks for any defects. Any plank that has been installed will be deemed acceptable.
Pressure sensitive glue such as Mapei Ultrabond Eco 399 is the recommended choice of adhesive for glue-down applications.
INSTALLATION
As vinyl flooring is designed to mimic a natural appearance, it is normal to have slight variations from plank to plank.
When installing, it is recommended to open several boxes at a time to mix and evenly distribute planks to balance out color variations.
First determine which direction planks will run – best appearance is achieved when planks are laid parallel to the longest walls.
Determine the center of the room, lay out tiles/planks to determine width of border planks to avoid having narrow widths less than half of a normal plank size. (6 inches for tiles and 6-12 inches for planks)
Tiles are marked with arrows on the back and should be laid staggered – in a checkerboard pattern.
Planks should be installed from one corner of the room, working outwards toward the other wall. Leaving ¼ of an inch of space to the wall, and other fixed objects ie doorframes etc.
Install planks staggered randomly with end joints no less than 6” from previous end row joint.
Lift planks to reposition if seam is not tight.
Replace spacers for wall expansion gaps, install molding pieces.
Underfloor Heating
This product can be installed with water based underfloor heating, provided that the heating is switched off 48 hours before, and after installation.
After 48 hours of climatization, underfloor heating must be gradually increased by increments of less than 5ºC over a period of 24 hours, maximum operating temperature tolerable is 27ºC.
AFTER INSTALLATION
Ensure planks are set, edges are tight and flat. If adhesives were used, a 3 section 100lb roller must be used in both directions until planks are properly set.
Restrict traffic for 24 hours after installation, failure to wait can impact adhesive curing and drying.
Temperatures should be maintained at 18ºC-28ºC throughout the life of the vinyl floors.
Regular cleaning of dirt, grit, dust, salt and any other abrasive materials will help to prevent scratches or blemish to the wear-layer of your vinyl floors.
Avoid letting sharp objects come into direct contact with your floors – high heels, cleats etc. any hard objects which may cause irreversible damage.
Place felt pads or floor protectors on the bottom of furniture to prevent scratching when moving furniture – careful not to drag any furniture across the surface of your vinyl floors.
Prolonged exposure to sunlight will cause changes to the color of vinyl flooring. It is a natural phenomenon and the fading of color of vinyl should be expected if exposed to prolonged sunlight or intense lighting.
To moderate sunlight exposure, it is recommended to have light filtering window coverings – drapes and blinds
When vacuuming floors – be sure to not to drag any plastic or metal attachments as that will scratch the surface of the finish and damage the floors.
Important
• Grandeur Flooring requires that vinyl flooring products must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty for your vinyl flooring.
• It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-floor conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
• Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in anyway the product is not to standard STOP installation
and immediately contact your retailer.
• The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed vinyl flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
• Prior to installation, installer or homeowner must carefully check planks for any defects. Any plank that has been installed will be deemed acceptable.
NOTE: If an area has dimensions longer than 20 ft in any direction, or if flooring is used in high traffic areas, then it is recommended to use adhesive on perimeter planks or tiles.
It is recommended to use full spread adhesive for areas of high traffic, volatile temperature variations, rolling loads.
The maximum area that can be installed without an expansion joint is 10m x 20m.
Recommended trowel size 1/16” x 1/16” x 1/16” square notch for high rolling traffic applications.
INSTALLATION
As vinyl flooring is designed to mimic a natural appearance, it is normal to have slight variations from plank to plank.
When installing, it is recommended to open several boxes at a time to mix and evenly distribute planks to balance out color variations.
First determine which direction planks will run – best appearance is achieved when planks are laid parallel to the longest walls.
Determine the center of the room, lay out tiles/planks to determine width of border planks to avoid having narrow
widths less than half of a normal plank size.
Planks should be installed from one corner of the room, working outwards toward the other wall. Leaving ¼ of an inch of space to the wall, and other fixed objects ie doorframes etc.
Install planks staggered randomly with end joints not less than 6” from previous end row joint.
Lift planks to reposition if seam is not tight.
Replace spacers for wall expansion gaps, install molding pieces.
Underfloor Heating
This product can be installed with water based underfloor heating, provided that the heating is switched off 48 hours before, and after installation.
After 48 hours of climatization, underfloor heating must be gradually increased by increments of less than 5C over a period of 24 hours, maximum temperature tolerable is 27C.
AFTER INSTALLATION
Ensure planks are set, edges are tight and flat. If adhesives were used, a 3 section 100lb roller must be used in both directions until planks are properly set.
Restrict traffic for 24 hours after installation, failure to wait can impact adhesive curing and drying.
Temperatures should be maintained at 15C-27C throughout the life of the vinyl floors.
Regular cleaning of dirt, grit, dust, salt and any other abrasive materials will help to prevent scratches or blemish to the wear-layer of your vinyl floors.
Avoid letting sharp objects come into direct contact with your floors – high heels, cleats etc. any hard objects which may cause irreversible damage.
Place felt pads or floor protectors on the bottom of furniture to prevent scratching when moving furniture – careful not to drag any furniture across the surface of your vinyl floors.
Prolonged exposure to sunlight will cause changes to the color of vinyl flooring. It is a natural phenomenon and the fading of color of vinyl should be expected if exposed to prolonged sunlight or intense lighting.
To moderate sunlight exposure, it is recommended to have light filtering window coverings – drapes and blinds
When vacuuming floors – be sure to not to drag any plastic or metal attachments as that will scratch the surface of the finish and damage the floors.
Avoid prolong contact with rubber as it can create a chemical reaction that will stain your vinyl floors – latex, rubber, bicycle wheels etc.
• Grandeur Flooring requires that vinyl flooring products must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty for your vinyl flooring.
• It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-floor conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
• Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in anyway the product is not to standard STOP installation and immediately contact your retailer.
• The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed vinyl flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
• Prior to installation, installer or homeowner must carefully check planks for any defects. Any plank that has been installed will be deemed acceptable.
NOTE: THE MAXIMUM RUN LENGTH IS 13.72M (45’) FOR SPC AND 9.144m (30’) FOR WPC CLICK VINYL PRODUCTS
IN EITHER DIRECTION. INSTALLATION EXCEEDING THIS SIZE WILL REQUIRE TRANSITION STRIPS.
Under-floor Radiant Heat
Vinyl floors can be installed over hydronic radiant heat systems using the floating method. Use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating.
• Before installing over newly constructed radiant heat systems, first operate the system at maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the radiant heat system.
• Turn the heat off for 24 hours before, during and 24 hours after installation. Ensure the temperature in the room is maintained consistently within 18-32°C. Operating surface temperature must not exceed 30°C.
• Once the installation has been completed, the heating system should be turned on; increased gradually (3-degrees increments) until reaching normal operating conditions.
Refer to the radiant heat system's manufacturer recommendations for additional guidance.
Use of electric heating mats underneath vinyl floor coverings will void the warranty.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The use of an additional underlayment except a 6mil or less poly vapor barrier could damage the locking mechanism and will void the warranty.
WARNING Do not install over: Heating panels, Carpets/Carpet pads, Existing cushion backed vinyl flooring, Floating floors of any type, Loose lay, Perimeter fastened sheet vinyl, Wood subfloors that lies directly on concrete or plywood over concrete, Products with low dimensional stability.
When installing, it is recommended to open several boxes at a time to mix and evenly distribute planks to balance out color variations.
• Start in a corner of the longest and straightest wall by placing the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 6.35mm (1/4’) between the wall and the flooring.
NOTE: This spacing must also be maintained between the floor and all vertical surfaces, including cabinets, posts, partitions, door jambs and door tracks. You will also need to use transition strips in doorways and between rooms. Failure to do so may cause buckling or gapping.
• To attach your second plank, lower and lock the end tongue of the second plank into the end groove of the first plank. Line up edges carefully to ensure a close and tight fit. Using a rubber mallet, lightly tap the top of the end joints where the first and second planks lock together. The planks should lay flat to the floor.
WARNING: Failure to properly line up the end joint and attempting to force it in while out of alignment could result in permanent damage to the end joint.
• Repeat this procedure for each subsequent plank in the first row. Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full plank. Fit the last plank by rotating the plank 180° with the pattern side upward and placing it beside the first row of planks with its end up against the far wall. Line a ruler up across the end of the last full plank and across this new plank. Draw a line across the new plank with a pencil, score with a utility knife and snap off.
• Rotate the plank 180° so that it is back to its original orientation. Lower and lock its end tongue into the end groove of the last full plank. Lightly tap the top of the
end joints with a rubber mallet until the planks are flat.
• You will begin the next row with the off-cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 200mm long and joint
offset should be at least 400mm. Adjust layout for a balanced look.
• To start your second row, rotate the cut-off piece from the previous row 180° so that it is back to its original orientation. Tilt and push its side tongue into the side
groove of the very first plank. When lowered, the plank will click into place. Using a tapping block and rubber mallet, lightly tap the long side of the new plank to lock it with the planks of the first row. The planks should lay flat to the floor.
• Attach the second plank of the new row first on the long side. Tilt and push plank into place, making sure edges are lined up. Lower plank to the floor. Using a tapping block and rubber mallet, lightly tap the long side of the new plank to lock it into place. Next, lightly tap down on the top of the end joints with a rubber mallet to lock them together. Continue laying remaining planks in this manner.
• To fit the last row, lay a plank on top of the previous row with its the tongue to the wall. Lay a ruler across the plank so that it is lined up with the side of the planks of the previous row and draw a line across the new plank with a pencil. Don't forget to allow room for spacers.
Cut the plank with a utility knife and attach into position.
• Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First, cut the plank to the correct length. Then, place the cut plank next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side. Trim by turning a plank upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that planks slide easily under the frames. Remove spacers once the floor is completely installed.
IMPORTANT: For bathroom installations, expansion space must be filled with flexible silicone sealant.
• Island counters and kitchen cabinets must NOT be fastened to or through the floor covering. It is preferable that no utilities are supplies to the island from below. Any pipes, wiring, ducting etc. should be treated as vertical obstruction and proper expansion/contraction space must be maintained around such obstructions.
• Millwork such as cabinetry must be fastened to the wall and not to the floor. As with island counters – heavy loads should be dispersed across the entire base. If heavy objects must be installed on legs, be sure that the contact points must be directly in contact with subfloor and not directly on vinyl floor products.
As there are different millwork manufacturing designs and specific variables from job items to job sites, these procedures are intended to be used as general guidelines. The suitability and method of installing millwork, cabinets and other heavy fixtures and objects on top of vinyl floors remains the sole responsibility of the flooring installer.
BEFORE THE INSTALLATION
Your SPC vinyl flooring should be stored in the room they are to be installed for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation. During this time, the planks should remain in the carton on a flat surface, room temperature should be maintained between 65° and 80°F (18° to 27°C) and humidity between 30-50%. It is also recommended to cut the carton on the short side to allow airflow inside the box.
• Make sure that the subfloor is smooth, flat, dry, clean and solid. Any adhesive residue or carpet staples should be removed prior to installation.
• SPC vinyl flooring can be installed directly on concrete (or anhydrite) subfloor and over most existing hard floor coverings providing they are smooth, flat, dry, clean and solid. Do not install over carpet or any other soft subfloors.
• Subfloors should be flat within a tolerance of 1/16" (2 mm) over a span of 4 feet (1,2 m). Any unevenness over 1/16" (2 mm) must be sanded down or leveled with a floor leveler. Voids or humps in the subfloor will prevent the planks from locking properly.
• Ceramic tiles should be made smooth by applying a cementitious overlay such as patching or leveling compound to smooth out grout joints.
• Although SPC vinyl planks are waterproof, they are not to be used as a moisture barrier. Your subfloor should be completely dry prior to installation of the engineered vinyl flooring (
• The final responsibility for determining if the subfloor is well prepared and dry enough for installation of the SPC vinyl flooring lies with the floor covering installer. It is recommended to use certified flooring installers and/or trained by UFL.
• The largest recommended installation area is 3000 ft2 (300 m2). It is recommended to use 1/4" (6 mm) expansion gap in the areas longer/wider than 65 feet (20 m) and in door openings, especially if there are temperature differences between areas.
Diagonal Herringbone
● This method refers to installing the flooring in the herringbone pattern at the 45 degree angle across the room.
● Draw a line at a 45 degree angle to the left corner of the room. This line will be used to align the diagonal herringbone pattern.
● Take an A plank and lay it down. The tongues on both short and long side should be facing walls. After that take a B plank and place the short side tongue perpendicularly to the groove of plank A.
● For the next planks (3rd plank is an A plank and 4th plank a is B plank) you will have to make a cutting before you fit them. Measure the planks according to the picture below and make a cutting.
● Once you place 3rd and 4th planks, refer to the picture below and continue the sequence.
● To finish up the installation, repeat the same process cutting the planks accordingly at the end of the room. Do not forget to leave 1/4” (6 mm) of gap from the wall.
Classic herringbone
● This method refers to installing the flooring in the classic herringbone pattern.
● Start with drawing the main line to divide your room in half. This line will be your main axis to install the floor.
● In order to proceed with the installation, you have to make starting sets. Starting set consists of 5 pieces (3 pieces of an A plank and 2 pieces of a B plank) that can be form into triangles. Starting sets can be made by installing the first few rows of the herringbone pattern along the main line that you set up earlier and then cutting the planks properly.
● Once you make the first set, you can cut additional sets by following the same process. Make sure that you cut one piece from one plank. The amount of starting sets depends on the width of your room. You can connect starting sets by one full plank.
● To finish up the installation, repeat the same process cutting the planks accordingly at the end of the room. Do not forget to leave 1/4” (6 mm) of gap from the wall.
• SPC vinyl flooring may be installed over water-based radiant-heated subfloors according to above-mentioned instructions, provided the surface temperature of the system does not exceed 81°F (27°C ). Due to the speed of sudden temperature changes, which has potential to negatively affect vinyl flooring construction, it is not recommended to install over electrical radiant heating systems. This will not be covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Only radiant heating systems using water are acceptable.
• When installing in a bathroom, please use professional silicone caulking to fill the expansion space at the tub, shower, and all wet areas to prevent surface water seepage under the floor.
• It is not recommended to install SPC vinyl flooring in areas exposed to intense direct sunlight and temperature greater than 140°F (60°C).
• Above installation instructions are for SPC vinyl flooring with click (floating installation).
Care and maintenance
In order to maintain your SPC vinyl flooring in good condition:
• keep the temperature in the room between 65° and 80°F (18° to 27°C)
• sweep or vacuum daily using soft bristle attachments
• clean up spills and excessive liquids immediately
• damp mop as needed and use cleaners recommended for no-wax vinyl floors
• protect floor from constant direct sunlight
• use proper floor protection devices such as felt protectors under furniture and a mat at entrance ways
• make sure pets have nails clipped regularly
• do not use abrasive cleaners, bleach or wax to maintain the floor
• do not drag or slide heavy objects across the floor
Do not transport flooring products exposed -- if under raining or damp conditions. Handle and unload flooring products with care, and store in a dry and well-ventilated place. Flooring shall not be delivered until the building has been enclosed with windows, doors are in place, and cement work, plastering, and all other wet work are completed and dry. HVAC systems must be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior to installation of the flooring and must remain operating during and after installation.
In addition, prior to installation of flooring, exterior grading must be completed with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3in over 10ft to direct the flow of water away from the building. All gutters and drainage spouts must be in place. The soil around the house must be treated or graded to provide sufficient drainage.
The following considerations are vital for ensuring the functionality and longevity of our products, failure to adhere to them will void your warranty.
This laminate flooring is extremely versatile and can be installed in all areas of your home, except for areas with higher levels of humidity in the environment, such as saunas, sinks, washing areas, etc. where its use is not recommended.
The product needs to be stabilized 48 hours prior to use with the boxes unopened and stored horizontally, well away from any walls.
The room temperature should be around 18ºC - 25ºC and the humidity between 40% - 60%
Ensure that your subfloor is Structurally Sound. The subfloor should be adequately nailed, screwed, or glued down prior to the installation of your floor. All nail heads must be driven down below the surface. Securely nail all loose boards. Scrape, plane or fill uneven boards, holes or cracks using floor-leveling compound.
Check that the subfloor is Level and Flat prior to installation. If there are any uneven areas of more than 2mm/linear meter, level them out in advance with a levelling paste.
The subfloor must also be Clean and cleared of any debris that may interfere with the floors or the installation. Lastly, the Moisture levels of the subfloor should be DRY and measured prior to installation using a moisture meter.
For installations on top of existing parquet, the flooring will be laid at 90º from the old flooring, never in the same direction as the old floorboards.
With existing wood base floors, it is recommended to remove a small perimeter from the old flooring to properly ventilate the strips.
Wooden floorboards or similar material. When laying flooring over wooden floorboards, you must leave enough space between the boards and the wall to allow for expansion. The flooring must be laid so that the gaps between the old floorboards are not in the same place as the joints between the laminate floor boards. Wood or wood-based materials must have a maximum residual humidity of 11%.
The mortar should have a humidity level of less than 2% (using the oven drying or calcium carbide method). When using artificial drying methods, sometimes only the surface layers dry and the lower layers can retain moisture which will, in time, rise to the surface.
Allow a sufficient period of time before taking new measurements to avoid any errors in the measurements taken. The drying time of the base floor will depend on its thickness and the atmospheric conditions of the area. As a guide, you can estimate that in conditions of between 20ºC and 50% relative humidity, drying time can be calculated using the following formula: t = 2s² where “t” is the time in days and “s” is the thickness of the base floor in centimeters.
Grandeur Flooring requires that laminate flooring products must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty.
It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-floor conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in any way the product is not to standard STOP installation and immediately contact your retailer.
The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed laminate flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
Prior to installation, installer or homeowner must carefully check planks for any defects. Any plank that has been installed will be deemed acceptable.
NOTE: When laying the flooring over a large surface area, you should also leave a 30 mm expansion gap every 12 meters lengthways and every 12 meters widthways (10 mm for the width of the clips and 10 mm for each length, note that the base of the profile is asymmetric, although this does not affect the spaces for expansion)
As laminate flooring is designed to mimic a natural appearance, it is normal to have slight variations from plank to plank.
When installing, it is recommended to open several boxes at a time to mix and evenly distribute planks to balance out color variations.
Before installing, determine the orientation of the planks – it is recommended to lay the flooring in the same direction as the main source of sunlight. For the best results, planks should always be installed longitudinally – laid parallel to the longest walls.
Use separating wedges to make sure that a 10mm gap is left between walls and columns throughout the perimeter. This gap will be hidden at the end with the baseboard and profiles and will give the product the space necessary for expansion and contraction. In the case of holes for pipes, measure the diameter of the pipe and make a hole 20 mm bigger. Door frames require special care as 10 mm also needs to be left to allow for expansion. To fit the expansion profile, you should leave a 30 mm gap where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms. (10 mm for the width of the clips and 10 mm for each length, note that the base of the profile is asymmetric)
1.A) Start the first row with whole boards. Start the second row with boards cut to 2/3 and the third row with boards cut to 1/3, thus giving the appropriate design flow. Never start with cuts of boards
B) Start laying the flooring from left to right, with the ‘tongue’ facing the wall. Make sure you place the boards 10 mm away from both walls. If the wall is irregular, the boards will need to be adapted to the contour of the wall.
C) To lock in short end of the second plank, place the short ends of the two pieces together (trying to leave them lined up straight), lift the piece at an angle of 15º-20º, pushing lightly forwards and downwards so that the piece automatically hooks into the adjoining piece. Continue this process until the row is finished. Place the last board, turning it 180º and facing it on the short sides groove to groove.
2. Use a section of the board cut in the previous row. This section must be at least 30 cm long. If it is too short, start the row with a new board cut to 1/3 the length of the piece. Ensuring to stagger planks for a more random finish.
3. A) To continue laying, place the next piece flat, parallel to the board of the adjoining row, raise the board at an angle (±15º), push forwards and down lightly and the pieces should automatically interlock.
B) Placing the short end of the board at an angle, opposite the board just installed, push forwards and down lightly. Make sure that the board lengthways along the piece is close to the adjoining board and lock it together with the previous piece.
C) Lift the board ±15º (along with the previous board laid in the same row), push lightly forwards and down, sliding the piece so it can lock into the length sides of the previous piece.
Measure and cut the board. Leave 10 mm from the wall for the necessary expansion gap.
ATTENTION: In some circumstances, it is not possible to lift the boards at an angle, so they lock together (for example, underneath door frames or radiators etc.). In such cases, you can fit the pieces together with the boards flat, bearing in mind that you should not directly strike the boards.
Tap the pieces gently until they lock together, taking care not to damage the laminate, ensuring the hitting block is in complete contact with the edge of the laminate flooring. Do the same on the long side but starting progressively at an end to move forward the length of the piece.
For 3 days after installation, it is advised to maintain floor surface temperatures at a minimum of 15ºC, with a minimum room temperature of 18ºC and relative humidity levels at a maximum of 75%.